Scroll Saw Village

Posts Tagged ‘Articles’

Scroll Saw Art and Art in Wood

February 4, 2008 - No Comments

by Pete Jansen

Creating scroll saw art in wood, and scroll saw portraits takes a lot of time and patience on the artist’s part. Each portrait starts out as an idea, and goes through many stages before he, or she can show off the finished product. These stages include, but are not limited to, selection of a workable image, filtering and pattern making, wood selection, transferring the pattern to the work piece, drilling, cutting, and finally framing and finishing the artwork. Finding a workable image to create a scroll saw pattern from is not very difficult. Images with solid dark (shadows), and light (highlighted) areas work the best. Light shining on the subjects in the image from an angle, produce the best results. These images can include photos captured by a digital camera, or artwork scanned into a computer. The computer is an important part in creating great scroll saw patterns and portraits in wood. It is possible to convert an image to a pattern by hand, but it is extremely difficult and time consuming. The best and fastest way to create a scroll saw pattern from an image is to use photo editing software like Adobe Photoshop. This editing software allows you to isolate the dark and light areas of the image to create a completely black and white pattern. The black areas will be the areas cut out of the wood to create the dark areas of the portrait or scroll saw art. Find the best filters to separate the dark and light areas of the image. “Poster edges” is a good way to start the process. The light areas can be touched up by hand with white-out to add finishing touches to the pattern before you transfer it to you work piece. When the pattern is ready to be applied to your work piece, it’s time to select a flat, clear piece of 1/8″ furniture plywood to work with. Baltic birch is the favorite for me. It is very light, free of dark spots and flaws. Cut the birch to fit your pattern and frame. After a light sanding, the work piece is completely covered on the top side with masking tape. The scroll saw pattern is printed out on the computer scaled to fit the area to be cut as well as the frame. Spray the masking tape with a light coat of high quality contact adhesive like 3M. Before it has a chance to dry, place the pattern on the work piece and smooth out any bubbles. You have to work fast, and apply it in the correct position the first time, or you will have to start over. Let the work piece dry for about an hour before continuing. Now that the work piece has the scroll saw pattern on it, and it’s dry, it’s time to drill lots and lots of tiny holes in it. Using the smallest drill bit that will allow the scroll saw blade to pass through it is a good idea. Every black area in the pattern must have at least one hole drilled in it for the scroll saw blade to pass through. Yes, every dark are is and individual cut and must have a hole drilled through it. On the opposite side of the coin, every light are must me connected to “all” other light areas, or sections of light areas will fall out of the artwork as the dark areas are cut out. Remember this when creating your pattern also. It’s more work to fix it later, after you’ve started cutting. Now the cutting begins. Work from the center of your scroll saw portrait out, as this helps keep the work rigid and strong as you are cutting. I like to use a 2/0 size spiral type scroll saw blade on my “portraits in wood”. This style scroll saw blade will cut in any direction, keeping you from having to constantly turn your artwork while cutting. Cut your first black area out of your piece remembering to start near the center of the work and leaving enough white area thickness so it won’t break off while you handle and cut it. It looks bad when you have to glue a broken of area back into the portrait. Now the tension on the blade is loosened, the top of the blade is taken out of the upper holder on the saw, and threaded through your next drilled hole. Keep cutting until all the dark areas are removed. The time has come to remove what remains of your pattern from the scroll saw portrait. Carefully peel the masking tape from the wood, being careful not to break any of the thin areas of the portrait or scroll saw art. Now you can see a little of how your work will look when it’s completed. Hold it up to a black background to admire all your hard work. Clean up the “fuzz” on the back side of the scroll saw art with fine sandpaper. Be careful not to break the portrait. Use a matt or semi-gloss style clear spray finish on the face of the scroll saw art, making sure to get finish on the inside of the cut areas to create a finished look. Let the scroll saw art dry overnight. Now it’s time to set it in the frame. A frame with glass or plexi-glass is recommended, as it makes the scroll saw art much easier to clean and dust later. Cut a backer board from wood, particle board or cardboard to fit your frame in back of the scroll saw art. Spray a light coat of spray adhesive on the backer board, and apply your dark or “black” backing material to it. I like to use black felt purchased at the fabric store, as it creates very dark negative space in your scroll saw portrait. Let it dry and add it to the frame in back of your portrait or scroll saw art. Insert the frames back and you’re done! Now that you’ve spent 10, 15 or even 20 hours creating this heirloom quality art in wood, it’s time to hand it over to your customer, loved one, or hang it on your own wall. Enjoy it, be proud of it, it’s truly one of a kind, especially if you used your own photo or image. And it took a long time to create. You now know how to create great scroll saw patterns as well as portraits in wood. Take a look at some of the highest quality scroll saw portraits at www.LoneTreeCreations.com

About the Author
Pete Jansen is one of the Southwests number one scroll saw artists. Creating scroll saw portraits, portraits in wood, art in wood and other beautiful creations. Pete shares some of his secrets and techniques with other woodworkers in his articles that have been published world wide.

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Selling Your Intarsia

January 17, 2008 - No Comments

By Jerry Mifflin

Our challenge as Crafter’s and intarsia artists is to discover our markets. You need to know your market, who is your customer? Are you selling a product to local or global customers.

If you’re selling to local customers say out of a storefront, you must know if you are in the right market and selling at the right price for this local customer. If you’re not showing the right product to the right customer base, chances are they’re won’t be any sales are at least very few.

It only makes sense that If your selling a product that is not of use to the customer and its not something that they see they want or need, you had better find either different markets or a different product to sell from your store.

I use to have a shop that sold simple crafts like little animal yard and driveway signs. I sold lots of country style decorative items for the interiors of their homes. These items sold well because I was living in a rural area where my customers had big yards and long driveways.

These people loved the country style of decorating. They loved the crafts I was making for them. I even had other crafters producing items for me to sell for them. I was producing and selling to my market base.

If I was trying to sell the country style signs or plaques where I’m living now, in the city, I would not do so well. For my customer base is not the same. Their yards are different, their driveway is short and their interior decorating may not be the same kind of “country style.” So for this new customer base you have to change your product line.

Does your product fit into the decorating scheme of most of your customers, if not very few are going to buy. You must be certain that your craft fits with your prospects or your business will fail. You must take the time to study this. Find the proper market place.

Crafts people are used in having friends and loved ones telling them how cool and how beautiful there craft is, this is encouraging. The problem is that it’s not realistic. You need to get input and about your product from a source that will give you a helpful honest response about your product.

When your customers come into your shop and say how much they like what you’re doing but walk out without buying anything you have to ask yourself, what’s wrong?

Are you in the right market for the craft you sell?

If your craft fits your customer, how is your price? The price you sell your product for may need to be adjusted up or down.

For the price setting you need to look at your competition. At what price are they selling a comparable product. Ask yourself can I make a profit selling my product at that price. Can I sell my product and get a higher price? What can I do to make my product worth more money?

I now sell art, “intarsia woodworking art” that is higher priced, which means for the customer to let go of the money, she will have to really love your product.

Crafts, can be a tough market. I am a cabinetmaker, caught up in the world of art. I love to add artistic designs to cabinet doors to make them stand out from what other people build. The cabinets add atmosphere to a room by giving the room character and there by adding value.

I have managed to sell a lot of my work over the years. My prices are usually from about $200 to $15,000 depending on the work involved. As I said before, some time ago I had a craft shop in a small town. I built every wood craft I could think of to build and it was fun, but not really much money.

The money only comes after you learn the business end of the craft market. As a cabinetmaker I have learned the hard way that you must get paid for the hours that you work, even when you love the work.

How much should I charge for my work?

It’s basically the same for most businesses, how much do you want to pay yourself per hour. Just add to that a percentage for overhead plus a percentage for profit and add material cost. That gives you a charging rate for all of your products. You must add the profit, that gives you the money to grow, like buying more tools. My charging rate depends on if it’s commercial or residential, $45-$85 per hour depending on how custom the work is. In my old “craft shop” my charging rate, at that time, was $35 hour, the price fit the product and the overhead.

If you can sell your craft as “ART” it will increase the amount you can charge for your product. Perceived value! Do you have awards! Do you have newspaper and magazine articles about you! Do you have references? Have you developed a recognizable name for your market? If not, you need to work towards these things. All of this adds to the perceived value of your craft.

Intarsia woodworking is my craft, my art. It’s the work I look forward to doing. Find the craft you love to make, find the correct customer base, set a reasonable price for your work and your on your way to a successful satisfying life.

(c) Copyright Jerry Mifflin, All rights reserved

Jerry Mifflin creates many works of Intarsia Art and gives away patterns of his work for other crafters to use. Articles and information on how to build intarsia are on his website, www.intarsia.us , specializing in that woodworking art and business. For patterns and a how to do intarsia art e-book go to www.freeintarsiapatterns.com to get yours.

The Business Side of Craft Shows

January 3, 2008 - No Comments

by: Natalie Goyette

Starting a craft show business when you’re really an artist at heart may be a rude awakening for you. Nevertheless, if you decide to turn your hobby into a business, you need to switch hats from time to time. You wear your artist hat when creating and producing your crafts, and you put on your businessperson’s hat when you’re running the business end. Begin successful on the craft show circuit doesn’t just mean you have a great product; it also means you have a decent head for business.

Planning your craft show business

It’s not absolutely essential to write a craft show business plan if you’re not seeking a loan or partner, however, it can help you focus your business goals from the start. There are numerous books and Web sites on how to write a business plan, and most will fit with craft shows just fine. The most crucial elements are the financial projections—which include your estimated income and expense for the next several years—and the marketing plan. The marketing plan helps you identify your target audience and how you can best find and serve them. This is essential as you develop your craft show product and find the right shows at which to sell. If you are seeking capital or a partner, you will probably need a complete business plan. If doing this overwhelms you, contact your local Small Business Administration, Small Business Development Center, Chamber of Commerce or local universities to find help with developing a professional business plan for your craft show company. At this point, you may also seek the advice of an attorney to decide what business entity yours will be—a sole proprietorship, a partnership, a limited liability company or a corporation. You can always grow into corporate status later on, though it’s advisable to at least know your options up front.

Licensing your craft show business

Most cities require any business, home-based or otherwise, to register and purchase a business license. These range in cost from $15 to $100 depending on the size of your city and are obtained from the city clerk’s office in most cases. It makes your craft show company official and enables you to conduct business legally. Find out if your city requires any special-use permits for operating a home-based business. The rules may differ if you have customers, supply trucks or employees coming to your location.

You may also need to file a fictitious name statement with your county offices if you call yourself anything other than your name, such as Posh Pottery. This guarantees that nobody else in your county is using the same business name. From here your file the name with a newspaper, and then you can open your business checking account. It’s highly advisable to keep craft show business income and expenses separate from personal if you are serious about being in business. Then on a regular basis, you can “pay” yourself from your business account. You can also now file your taxes as a business entity and take advantage of the many tax exemptions for businesses. Car expenses or mileage, supplies, overhead costs and more are all deductible. Find a copy of a schedule C (www.irs.gov) to see some of the expenses you can write off.

Now you have officially moved out of the hobby status and in to the serious craft show business. Actually the IRS considers your enterprise a hobby if you haven’t made a profit in two out of five years that you file as a business. If that happens, it’s time to rethink taking your goods to craft shows as a business venture.

You will probably need to get a resale (sales tax) license. This allows you to buy wholesale anything you will be reselling and not pay taxes, however, you need to charge tax on your crafts and then submit it to the tax board either monthly, quarterly or annually. Check with your local state board of equalization or state office of taxation to find out what their rules are. It doesn’t cost anything to get a resale license.

It’s helpful when starting out to set aside a savings account for your sales tax to be sure you have it when it comes due. Also check with your sales tax office if you are required to collect tax when you’re selling in other states. Some show promoters collect tax from you at the end of the show, so you need to keep accurate records, which you can do by issuing a receipt with every customer purchase. Make sure you find out the amount of tax you need to charge at the show as it varies by city, county and state. Also, it’s a good idea to carry your sales tax permit everywhere—you may need to pick up some supplies, and you can avoid having to pay taxes on them.

Each city, county and state has different regulations regarding licensing, so make some phone calls to find out what’s required, and do this well before your first craft show.

About The Author
Natalie Goyette shows you how to make your craft show business profitable in her best selling ebook: Craft Show Success Secrets. Visit her site: http://www.craftshowsuccess.com.

Intarsia Teddy Bear

December 17, 2007 - No Comments

Now that you made your first teddy bear intarsia, your neighbor’s cousin now wants one. What to do? Well, Wood Magazine can help you out on your next intarsia project. They have provided a great article by Judy Gale Roberts, about getting started in intarsia. The article is free to download and presented in a 12 page PDF format for easy printing. The article takes you step by step through the entire process. And true to Wood Magazine’s style, the article is richly illustrated with photos and drawings that explains every detail. Naturally, they also include the free teddy bear pattern.

So if you still need a little more help in your journey down intarsia road, or if you just need a great pattern, check out this great article.

The Different Varieties of Scroll Saw Blades Used for Intricate Cuts

December 13, 2007 - No Comments

by Muna wa Wanjiru

A scroll saw is used to generally cut intricate cuts. To help the scroll saw perform these types of cuts you will find the need to have a variety of scroll saw blades. These blades which are available from hardware stores are designed for many different purposes. For this reason you should either have a large variety of scroll saw blades or depending on your crafting abilities a few specialized blades.

There are about six different major varieties of scroll saw blades that are available. These blades are generally about five inches long. A brief look at the different scroll saw blades will let you see how these blades are different in nature. The first one we will look at is that of the Skip tooth blade.

The skip tooth blade is named due to the saw teeth being positioned with a gap distance between each tooth. The next type of scroll saw blade to be looked at is the Crown or two way saw teeth. In this blade type the teeth of the blade are facing both upwards and downwards.

This double direction facing teeth on these scroll saw blades allows you to make cuts in the material. You will have the option of cutting in a downward stroke. You could also cut using an upward stroke. This is very handy as there may be times you will need to cut the wood in either direction.

Another of the scroll saw blades is that of the Double Skip tooth. In this the teeth of the blade is fashioned in a manner that is similar to that of Skip Tooth blade. You will find however that the gap is located after two saw teeth have been found. In other words the arrangement of the teeth for this blade is two teeth, a gap and then another set of two teeth.

You can use the Metal cutting scroll saw blades for the purpose any cutting any type of metal. Here the blade is made from hardened metal. Now if you are cutting any other substance such as glass with a scroll saw it is best if you use a Diamond blade. This particular blade has a diamond coated wire blade. This is truly the blade to use when you need to cut through glass.

The final major scroll saw blade that we shall look at is that of the Spiral blade. This blade is formed in an unusual way. This blade is a flat blade that has been twisted so that the teeth of the blade are facing in every direction. This makes using this type of blade perfect for the tasks where you need cutting ability in just about any direction.

You will find all of these saw blade useful. While these are a brief look at the major scroll saw blades you will find that there are many other blades to use. See what the various saw blades are like. You might find a few more useful ones.

About the Author
Muna wa Wanjiru is a Web Administrator and Has Been Researching and Reporting on Saws for Years. For More Information on Scroll Saw Blades, Visit His Site at Scroll Saw Blades.

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